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Saturday, May 3, 2008

Bukit Lawang, Leuser National Park

Bukit Lawang is located about 90 kms by road to the North-West from Medan, the Capital of North Sumatra, Indonesia. The tourist village of Bukit Lawang is the main access point for the rain forests of the Taman Nasional Gunung Leuser (TNGL) or Mt. Leuser National Park. Gunung Leuser National Park is a large national park covering 950,000 hectares in northern Sumatra, Indonesia, straddling the border of the provinces of North Sumatra and Aceh.

A one-way bus fare on large, non air-conditioned buses from Medan to Bukit Lawang is around Rp 20,000.- (twenty thousand rupiahs) per person. You may catch the Pembangunan Semesta bus or minibus from Pinang Baris Terminal. If you get into Medan by ferry, then you'll meet many drivers offering minivans from the Belawan ferry terminal direct to Bukit Lawang.

Remember bargain hard is a must. Expect to be shifted minivan at least once (in Medan). Prices vary between Rp. 60,000 and 80,000 all the way to Bukit Lawang. The extra cost should outweigh the hassle of getting into Medan, finding the bus station, then finding a hostel in Bukit Lawang (especially if you arrive during a torrential downpour). The driver will usually recommend a family or friend's hostel.

Visitors of Bukit Lawang can see Sumatran Orangutans (Pongo pigmaeus) at the nearby rehabilitation centre and for jungle trekking. Seeing the orangutans is magical. You can usually see them near the main lodge, but it is better to do a half day hike than 3 hours if you have time. The orangutans can be seen at the feeding reserve, a 15 minute walk out of the village, but the best experience is in the jungle where there are many semi-wild and wild animals.


The wild Orangutan is difficult to spot unless you go deep into the jungle. There are also white and black gibbons that make an amazing noise calling out to each other, and Thomas Leaf monkeys. If you are lucky, you may be able to see toucans, moon snakes, monitor lizards. Since there are very few still alive, it is very improbable that either the Sumatran Tiger or the Sumatran Rhinoceros will be encountered, although footprints and droppings have been reported.

During the wet season, October to March, expect rain at least daily, towards the late afternoon and early evening. Intensity varies, but invariably the monsoonal rains always arrive. Climate is always very humid, so pack a lot of drinking water if you are trekking.

Access to the Gunung Leuser National Park is Rp. 20,000 per person - payable either in Bukit Lawang, or at the orangutan feeding ground. Permit should be included in all treks and jungle activities, but check with the guide to be sure.

Free sightings are available just by sitting across from the sanctuary and waiting patiently; orangutans that have been rehabilitated and released often come back to the sanctuary from the wild to be fed. The sanctuary charges Rp.20,000 to see a couple orangutans it has in cages (for scheduled feedings), but if you walk around the grounds before 7:30AM or after 6:00PM, you can see these caged orangutans for free.

Furthermore, if you want to walk into the jungle, they will request that you have a guide, so if you are travelling on a budget, a dry-season possibility is to hike for free along the river. You actually have a better chance of seeing monkeys and orangutans along the river that by trecking into the jungle, where sightings can't be guaranteed. However, be aware that several river crosses will be required as the river slightly shifts its course after every rainy season, so wear appropriate shoes. During the rainy season, such a trek is impossible and a boat is needed to cross over to the orangutan rehabilitation facility (rate Rp 500.- per person for a 7 meter crossing).

If you want to see wild orangutans, note that guides will sell their services to trek into the surrounding jungle for 1-2 days to search for them, often charging US$65-80 per night, besides provisions. Rates can be had for US$35 per night with hard bargaining. Although sightings of orangutans is likely, it is unknown whether they are more tame wild animals or less tame reintroduced animals. Whatever the case, a trip in the jungle to see them and the other flora and fauna is worthwhile.

Other activities include using an innertube to float down the river (called cubing in Sumatra, pronounced "choobing"). Competitive rates in were Rp 5,000.- per tube if you aggressively bargain and only go for a short (2-3 hour) trip. Remember that you have to walk back up-river with tube in tow.

Lodging: Don't expect to pay higher than Rp 30,000.- to 40,000.- for a basic room.

- Jungle Inn, directly opposite the orangutan sanctuary. Offers reasonably priced rooms, but slightly inflated prices for food by Sumatran standards. Jungle Inn has a couple of very special rooms namely 'Presidential Suite' and the 'Honeymoon Suite' priced 300,000 and 150,000 respectively.

- Nora's Homestay, approximately two kilometers by road from the river. A great kampung-style experience from 25,000rp upwards per night including self-contained shower and toilet. Nora's family have built new accommodation of 3 rooms and restaurant along the path to Jungle Inn next door to Canoopy Restaurant and called it Rain Forest.

- Garden Inn not far from Jungle Inn is another pleasant place to stay in Bukit Lawang. Bukit Lawang Cottages also known as 'Eco Lodge' (just across the river from main village at the base of the hill and where the walking tracks start) is a good option with prices starting from 80,000/night particularly good, if you arrive late in the day. It's also one of the main places to eat/drink at night and meet in the morning for treks.

- Wisma Bukit Lawang Indah is across the river next door to Yusman which is next door to Wisma Sibayak. Cheap rooms with a double and single bed go for Rp. 30,000. These three are all budget places and pleasant enough to stay in. Bukit Lawang Indah has excellent cheap food.

- New places in Bukit Lawang are Sam's, 3 rooms with prices from 80,000-150,000, next door to Jungle Inn and nearby Jungle Tribe currently 'a bar and restaurant', but with 3 rooms planned for the future.

- Hostel Indra Inn, directly at the river at your left hand side when you walk to the orangutan centre. Good healthy food for reasonable prices.

Source: Wikipedia, Wikitravel

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